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Traveling in Uzbekistan in 2004 (Khiva. Road to Bukhara. Bukhara)
Ending with lunch, I decided to find the residence of the Emir: Ark fortress, and Ivan said that the tired and would like to stay on Lyabi-House, at first I was afraid to leave him one, but hotel nearby, around calmly as well, something inside me told That I do not to complicate the issue on fears, I went to another street and soon was near the Ark, at first glance it seems a huge fortress. But inside is not very big and residence.
On that day, Acre was closed, no longer remember why, say, come tomorrow, and I went to the park Sasanids, with the way I tried to find out the local youth, I hit two girls, learn in Bukhara, from what is local villages, the do not speak English, ask for a better way to the older generation, they still know Russian, we have tried to communicate in English, but as my level is not brilliant, and even worse, and only realized as each other's name, and that I search for Sasanids mausoleum. By ownership took me by the hand and brought to the place at all, I want to say we all met only friendly attitude, even the road has never explained at length, as we have usually done this (turn right and then left) always bring to a place or caught we bus garden us there and explain in detail where take to we have driver.
Searching the Cherry Park, near the mausoleum sit slightly returned to Lyabi-House, a sound clip filmed there, people gathered and Ivan my ibid. full cone of paper delighted with the sweet nuts, entertain his someone. I am told that the park was Ivan severely fire again to go there. But now I have not been force, sleepless nights affected, we went to Internet cafes to announce that we are good, this whole story, a whole hour we could not go to your mail, in a word us very bad. So we are not so lucky.
The next day we went to the mazar Bahautdina Nakshbandi, a very beautiful place.
Three times went around the tree-stick, thinking desire, despite the large number of people, it was Sunday morning, still in the soul was the grace and appeasement.
After lunch, went to Ark, Cash asked us not you like to book an excursion, I asked how much does it cost: 2500 soums, it is less than the dollar (one dollar = 1360 soums)
We decided to take the tour, came out to us lady and not very glad fact that for two people to tour, beginning illegibly mechanically studied lecture, the material shows she knew well, but as something cold and colorless. There appeared tourist group of foreigners, she only knew of the English language guides, apologized and handed over supervisor left us, first, I regret, though tour and cost pennies, but read at the stands and I can than supervisor became involved, but then the situation took another turn , After the regular plates on the wall read, I have it as it asked. she replied with pleasure, and then we have a conversation, I think that she knows nothing less guide, which bailiffs to us, just shy of that research can not submit material, but it's even better when we were talking about the last Emir, on his emigration to Afghanistan, on his descendants. On the local masters, the famous people who visited Acre recent years, the conversation came out lively and interesting, we learned from it, what more can be visited in Bukhara interesting, but the evening we were already travel to Khiva, otherwise we would not met the timetable.
At five o'clock evening took things out of the hotel, and we bid farewell to the owner left for the city, there is a place I do not remember the exact name where taxi industry in the direction of Khorezm, Urgench, Khiva. The machine is primerno30000 soums, that is 30 bucks for five-six hours of driving. Us Apart from Ivan taxi driver took another two local men, one to another until Horezma Urgench. We all continue with Ivan, I agreed beforehand that because Khiva will enter at night to transferted us to the hotel, and hotel need not more 15 dollars per person. Nexia (Uzbekistan popular car) in Uzbekistan and narrow capacity only two healthy men in the back seat. But since Ivan slim then and he still together, I was traveling in the front seat. We watch local landscapes, to be honest it did not look at that, some solid salt. In the middle of the road I was asked to change, very closely to meet them there were, poor Ivan entire squeeze, yet he brings bad machine, it make sick from time to time. Somewhere in the eleventh hour entered in Urgench, all the passengers had already left, taxi driver tried to persuade me to have own in Urgench, but well that I did not agree.
He said that he must Fuels and that I am not afraid, as will be called in the yard. Come in some street, made petrol in jerrycans. That such local refueling.
Get to Khiva, from Urgench 20 minutes by car, drive three hotels finally found it acceptable, at first there was no water in the second too expensive, all arranged in the third, six dollars per person, we settled on the night at the historic complex.
Morning went to watch old Khiva, the complex is protected by UNESCO, said that the beautiful architecture, it means nothing to say, it is in the Hive begin to feel that you are not just in another country, in another reality, there probably all fairy tales were shot during the Soviet era. Went breakfast, coffee shops were closed, but only we have, then covered with a table, asked what would we wish, we asked the local fried fish, after 20 minutes we had a huge grilled fish bowl, the names I still do not understand, but it was tasty . In the Hive on the local population spoke English worse than in Bukhara.
After breakfast first thing climbing on the minaret, then kind of stunning, but the legs sick two days, and photographs obtained with the most beautiful minaret. Vegetation in the city little, feel the desert near, almost all the main inspection went to the local market to buy fruit, to be honest in Novosibirsk in any stalls more choices than Central Bazaar in March, a lot of spices, greens, vegetables. A fruit from local oranges, pomegranates and almost old decomposed grapes. At the bazaar occurred incident with me, on my head and mix all figures per kilogram orange, I became count down any amount of fabulosity, the seller looked, then looked at me, I said let's itself count out money, has given me the desired amount of balance, with words, I do not need unnecessary.
From the permanent road to meet tired. Actually I want to say that we never tried to deceive either in shops or on the market, although it was evident that the money I am confused.
In Khiva, we had a half day, set only the first time seems enormous, a few hours we all to search everyone climbed everywhere, where only could. Watched local exposure, nothing special, it was interesting to walk to local shops and shop, see how manually weaving carpets. Artistic products fishing in a little Hive, is mainly Ovine hats in the style of al-abrek, Turkmen dolls, animal skins (wolf, fox), ceramic and wooden figurines, as well as from camel wool slippers and socks. Hours in two days we were already in Urgench, to reach the bus and it turned out that came very early bus to Samarkand waste of five hours, bought tickets and not to hang about with things thrown at their bus and left to go around on Urgench. Very spared that sooner left Khiva, as well as in Urgench nothing to watch.
Steels go any more or less decent cafes, wander in a restaurant, with a menu we disappoint in, some Uzbek dishes, we are already tired of meat, food Uzbek very bold and a tight, I asked a waitress whether it could be something else order, Ivan said that just missed on buckwheat with sausages. And I would just potatoes with salad, no problems have told us. By and a bit more on the passing of Urgench nothing to do, returned to the bus. The things we were on the ground, and the bus was already completely filled with passengers. I do not know why, but I have always been calm for things.
The road to Samarkand been long and lying across the Turkmen border, where the first time I took a passport that I strongly strain, but border guards were very polite and after five minutes, as promised, I returned the passport. At night the bus was cold, especially froze their feet, legs, I Ivan muffled in sheep hat and a child fallen asleep, the middle of the night somewhere in an hour, was stopping at some chayhana and we were asked to withdraw. I said to let the child remain at least, he sleeps, but even with the babies all were asked to quit because the driver did not want to take responsibility for other people's belongings, saying any case.
As a coach I simply. In Samarkand came early in the morning, we immediately took a taxi again agreeing with the driver about the hotel. He brought us in the centre, the hotel "Asia Hotel". The landlady asked for forty dollars per person, I refused, the driver became a bargain with her, she said where you can find six dollars per person, but the driver was to defend our interests, saying, need only private hotel, in the end bargain for small room for 20 dollars per person, including breakfast. A room was very comfortable and warm. I complained that all night in Uzbekistan terrible ice, I had another heater, I am so tired from the road that we are nowhere did not go immediately, but decided at least a little sleep, the more so as we stopped for two days.
The first day we spent to watch "Registan", "Bibi Khanum", and the local market. Buy up local tomatoes. Such first time I tried, but grew up in the Crimea. They were huge, exotic forms, and hollow inside. Well, that took only on the sample, ordinary tomatoes is much tastier. Ivan came to the delight of the fact that the market can go and try everything, gained local sweets and green tea, green tea is very cheap different varieties.
Uzbekistan Travel Tips Part 1 (Arrival in Tashkent. Urgench. Khiva)
Uzbekistan Travel Tips Part 2 (Khiva. Road to Bukhara. Bukhara)
Uzbekistan Travel Tips Part 3 (Road to Samarkand. Samarkand)
Uzbekistan Travel Tips Part 4 (Samarkand. Shakhrisabz. Departiry from Tashkent)
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